Here's the second section of my Hong Kong diary -
Walking
Caged Birds -
The Cantonese are great bird fanciers: anything else
that moves,
they eat. The birds range from large mynahs to
songbirds the size of
a jenny wren, and you will often see a man walking
along the street
carrying a cage containing his favourite bird. They
walk them like
the British walk their dogs. If the owner is in a park
he sometimes
hangs the cage in a tree and rests his weary feet on a
bench. Bus
and lorry drivers take them to work, placing the cage
lovingly on the
top of the dashboard.
I can see these bird fanciers love their pets, but
what disturbs
me is the size of the cages. Some of them are not much
bigger than a
teapot. Whenever you mention this to someone, they
always come back
with the old adage, "Bird no happy, bird no
sing." It is true, the
birds do sing away for hours on end, but then so did
the negro slaves
in the cotton fields of Alabama.
Romantic
Hotels –
In various parts of Hong Kong you will find hotels
with heart-shaped
neon signs and other romantic paraphernalia in their
surrounds.
Rooms at these hotels are for rent by the hour.
Whenever a visitor
is told about the short stays, they immediately jump
to a natural
conclusion, but these hotels are not brothels. They
are very respectable establishments where one can take one's wife. In fact,
this is what they're for. Any apartment with a floor space over 400 square
feet is a luxury
dwelling in Hong Kong. At the time of writing this
(April, 1989) the
annual rent of the apartment in which Annette and I
live - at 2000
square feet - is £36,000. If it did not go with my
wife's job we
would be living in a bedsit on Lantau Island. It
follows therefore
that poorer families, and even the not so poor, live
in tiny
accommodation with extended families. When a young
married couple
wish do what young couples like doing occasionally,
and wish to do it
out of earshot of grandmas, grandpas, aunties and
uncles, who probably
sleep in the same room, they take themselves off to a
romantic hotel
for an hour or two.
The problem of privacy, or just a place in which to
concentrate,
is an acute one in Hong Kong. Schoolchildren and
students can be
seen using the parks, the tube stations and even the
steps leading up
to shopping precincts, to do their homework, rather
than return to
noisy crowded apartments. Two places they do not go,
of a Sunday
afternoon, are Chater and Statue Gardens on Hong Kong
Island. Sunday
is the day off for all the Filipina maids in the
colony, who gather in
these two small parks in their thousands to talk and picnic
until dark.
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